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| OVERVIEW |
Capri SwimmingA "beach" on
the island of Capri is any narrow strip of rocks from which you can swim
without having to dive or jump off a cliff. Without a private boat,
options for swimming in Capri include hotel pools, the more ample beach of
sand and pebbles at the port of Marina Grande, replete with fuel scum from
yacht and hydrofoil, or Marina Piccola, a short bus ride or a long winding
walk from the Piazzetta. We walked, missing the hidden access to a zillion
steps directly down to what Frommer calls "the major beach." Actually, it
was a teeny, tiny, rocky incline to the water, where people were shoulder
to shoulder as they stretched out on their towels, though we were a whole
month ahead of high season.
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| SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES | |||||||||||||||||
| NIGHTLIFE & THE ARTS | |||||||||||||||||
| FEATURES: | |||||||||||||||||
| When to Go | |||||||||||||||||
| Amalfi Coast Tours | |||||||||||||||||
| Praiano | |||||||||||||||||
| Capri Swimming | |||||||||||||||||
| Amalfi Coast Beaches | |||||||||||||||||
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There were one
or two restaurants which, for a fee, provided chairs and towels, but the
best deal was a fine little promontory of rocks strewn with flat concrete
slabs holding beach chairs, plus a ladder down to the sea, all for $12.
The legacy of aristocracy prevails on European beaches, and if you want a
tranquil spot, it will cost, separating the haves from the have-nots. I
stayed shoulder to shoulder among the peons until late day, when the
private enclave began to empty out, then swam over to their ladder and
enjoyed the still strong sun in comfort and style. A better
option, and not an advertised one, is to make your way from the center of
Capri to the Via Tragara, and walk to the Faraglioni, then descend the
interminable cliff-side steps to the sea. Awaiting you are two lovely
waterfront restaurants. Pick one, eat lunch, sunbathe on their lounges,
and go down their ladder to the clearest and cleanest water, staring ahead
at the giant signature rocks of Capri, the rocks of the sirens where the
legendary blue lizards are or once were, since I never saw one. Another
swim option is to take the bus to Anacapri and the entrance to the Blue
Grotto. Just above the entrance is the Bagno Nettuna, at Via Grotta
Azzurra, 42. The drama of the jagged lava rocks and the plunge to the sea,
plus lunch, a swimming pool, cabana towels and deck chairs is a good deal.
Just below this is another garden restaurant, without a pool but with a
great lobster lunch and levels of cabana chairs on the private rocky
ledges so you can sun contentedly and, if you dare, jump into the sea
below. |
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Hotel Onda Verde |
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Amalfi Coast Italy
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